Travel Secrets

Take me back to Mikro Papigo!

Take me back to Mikro Papigo!

Republishing the article of Chrissie from rivieragrapevine.com

 

Have you ever discovered one of those places so amazing that you’ve wanted to scream it out to the world, yet keep it your own little secret, both at the same time?

That’s how Keith and I felt earlier this month when we came across the hidden mountain village of Mikro Papingo in Greece.

At a time of the year when tourists usually head south to famed islands like Mykonos and Santorini, it felt as if we had this magical spot to ourselves.

We’d ended up in the dusty, nondescript port town of Igoumenitsa, best known as the mainland crossing for Corfu. Planning to head towards the Albanian coast, we were looking for somewhere in Greece, close to the border, to indulge in a bit of leisurely R&R after 28-odd hours on the boat. Somewhere nicer than Igoumenitsa (not hard).

Thank you Lonely Planet, for urging those planning to visit northern Greece to not miss the Zagorohoria. About two hours inland from the coast, the Zagori (as it is more easily known) is a mountainous region where the 40+ traditional stone villages were once linked by footbridges and steep paths.

Today, zig zag roads which deserve a place on Top Gear provide the winding connections.

We arrived in Mikro Papingo just before sunset, after navigating the above road and passing through the charming Megalo Papingo en route to it’s smaller (mikro), and higher, neighbour.

We had decided to spoil ourselves with a stay at the rather luxurious looking Mikro Papigo 1700 Eco Lodge and Spa.

The hotel occupies some of the highest traditional houses in the village, which date from 1700 (hence the name, a reference to the year, not the altitude). You can see the white umbrellas which shade the restaurant terrace from all points in the village.

The view from the terrace is sublime. Situated at the foot of the Gamila peak, it’s hard not to be mesmerized by the vista which sweeps down through the valley and over towards the village of Aristi. At night, the other mountain villages can be easily identified as they transform into pockets of dancing lights.

The Zagori is a nature lover’s paradise and you can hike, canyon and raft in Vikos Gorge or attempt to push further up the mountain to the refuge at around 2000 metres.

Or, you could just be lazy like us and spend your time becoming acquainted with the facilities at Mikro Papigo 1700. The sun lounge with a view, the pool (such a relief in the July heat), and the restaurant which served the most amazing breakfast.

The village itself is tiny and oh so magical.

I got just a tad infatuated with the traditional doors which no doubt concealed a pretty courtyard or two. I spent most of my time trying to get a glimpse of what lay behind!

Not to forget the bright flowers, alleyways shaded by overhanging vines, and the sound of wild horses passing through (and turtles, goats, frogs and one cheeky scorpion which made itself at home in Keith’s shorts!)

The ‘streets’ of Mikro Papingo are 100% pedestrian, which mean children can roam free and parents can relax. Yet the village car park was about 3 minutes away from our hotel, and Keith could keep an eye on his precious bike from our room. Not that we felt anything but a cushion of blissful security in our mountain hideaway.

The hotel itself offers a cool solution to any access problems – quad bikes to transport luggage up the stone passageways.

I’ve always had this image of Greece as one of vine-covered terraces, big communal benches, great food and plentiful jugs of wine. If I’m honest, previous visits to Athens and further south haven’t fulfilled.

Most unexpectedly, our two nights in the Zagori have.

It’s asking for trouble when you experience a hotel as wonderful as the Mikro Papigo 1700 so early in your trip. It’s setting the bar impossibly high. We had modern design and luxury at our fingertips yet were isolated from the worries of the world in our traditional, charming, rustic Greek village.

We really didn’t want to leave. And now we can’t wait to go back to Mikro Papigo.

 

Source: rivieragrapevine.com

 

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From: Panos Papamikropoulos

 
 

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