Cover photo by Condé Nast Traveler

Condé Nast Traveler suggests the experience of a road trip in the dramatic landscapes of Mani. According to the editor Kelly Phillips Badal, unlike the rest of mainland Greece, Laconia is sparsely populated and unveils its charms more slowly than Athens—making it a requisite notch on the belt for anyone who wants to experience the “real” Greece.

A must-see in Lakonia is the beautiful town of Gytheion, according to the magazine. “It is a breezy, charming harbor town with a history steeped in romance. (According to Homer, Gytheio was the first refuge of Helen and Paris during their elopement to Troy). Per the legend, they set sail from the nearby island of Kranai, now connected to the town’s coastal road by a causeway. Today, Gytheio is the largest town in east Mani, an active seaport—and an all-around gorgeous place to stop for a stroll.”

The editor suggests lunch at one of the taverns along the harbor of Gytheio, or a stop at one of the ouzeries for grilled octopus and chilled ouzo.

An hour south of Gytheio, you’ll see the first of Mani’s emblematic tower houses, “an outward sign of clan strength and unity, and the height, strength and armament of a tower was an open display of power.”

Next stop, Limeni. It’s a favorite gathering place for locals who come for the town’s renowned seafood joint, Takis Fish Taverna. You don’t need reservations; just walk straight in and watch as freshly-caught fish is grilled right in front of you.

The editor also suggests the southernmost tip of the Peninsula, Cape Tainaron, that hosts one of Laconia’s most notorious legends. “A rambling walk leads to a small cave near the cape’s edge, which, ancient Greeks believed, is the entrance to Hades—the underworld of classic mythology. According to the stories, the cave is where Orpheus entered the underworld to search for his lost love, Eurydice (famously losing her again when he turned back to see if she was indeed following him out of the underworld).

“Another Mani treasure is the 13th-century church of Panagia Odigitria. No one knows why such an isolated spot outside the village of Stavri was chosen for this teeny Byzantine church, which just makes its existence more magical. The timeworn white building is reachable on foot via a 20-minute walk along a narrow coastal pathway. The caves directly behind it are said to have been home to hermit monks (soot-blackened stones are visible within); the church itself is filled with fading frescos and cracked floors.”

According to Condé Nast Traveler, your last stop in Laconia should be the ancient town of Mystras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in the 13th century, tucked at the foothills of the Taygetos mountains. Pull over and wander slowly through its empty streets, admiring the medieval houses, churches, and impressive array of beautiful, fading frescoes. At the top, gaze out upon miles and miles of southern Greece and bid farewell to the region before your journey back to Athens.

Via Condé Nast Traveler

Photo credits: Tanveer Badal by Condé Nast Traveler

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From: Anthi Sasmatzoglou

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